une fin d'été en normandie ... along with a side-trip to brittany
Josie & Wolfgang
Austria, November 2025
(webpage is under construction)
By the time you read this ...
we are back from our summer holidays in the north-west of France. After spending our vacation in our home country for several years, it was about time to make new plans for 2025. We have chosen to travel the Normandy, one of the most beautiful regions in France. Fourteen wonderful days on a road trip, touring from Paris to the Seine-Maritime region, along the coastal areas of the Calvados and Manche including a quick side-trip to Cancale in Brittany, and from there across the Orne and Eure regions to Giverny at the Seine river before our return trip to Vienna.
Besides the breathtaking landscapes, what impressed us most in Normandy was the relaxed lifestyle of the lovely people and, of course, the delicious French cuisine. Everything fell into place naturally, and everywhere we went, we received a warm and hospitable welcome. Merci!
Seine-Maritime and Calvados
The bright cliffs of the Alabaster Coast, the linen fields of the Plateau de Caux and the meanders of the Seine river are among the scenic highlights of the Seine-Maritime department, which stretches in the north of Normandy between the lower reaches and the mouth of the Seine river and the white cliffs of the Alabaster Coast on the English Channel.
We've pitched our tent in the Castel de la Terrasse B&B on the hills of Etretat, a cozy small town between Fecamp and Le Havre from where we could conveniently reach most of the interesting places of the Alabaster Coast, as well as Honfleur, Trouville-sur-Mer and Deauville in the Calvados department. Although Etretat is touristy, in September off the high season it was never crowded but very enjoyable.
Estelle, the owner of the property, is an elegant Frenchwoman straight out of a storybook and a great host. She gave us a very warm welcome and provided us with valuable tips and advice, which places in the region we should visit and - important for us - where to eat in and outside Etretat.
Of the restaurants Estelle recommended, we particularly liked two in Etretat. La Flottille, a popular restaurant known for its lively atmosphere and friendly service, attracting guests with its cozy ambiance and the grilling of meat and fish over a wood-fired oven; and the "fruit de mer" restaurant L'Huitriere, not only for its excellent seafood and oysters, but also for the smile and friendliness of the waitress Sandy – if we're not mistaken – who was always cheerful and entertaining in perfect English and gave us excellent advice when ordering.
Besides of rather quiet places to absorb the everyday life in the Normandie, our tours in this region of course included Honfleur, Le Havre, Trouville-sur-Mer, Deauville and Pont-L'Eveque (Calvados Experience), each of which has its unique character and atmosphere and certainly attract many holidaymakers in the Normandy, as well as one-day visitors. But should you once stay in Etretat, reserve a weekday to visit the coastal village Veules les Roses north-east of Fecamp on the way to Dieppe, which is known as one of the most beautiful villages in whole France.
Well, after spending four days in Etretat and the region stretching from Veules les Roses to Deauville it was time to start on our way to our next destination Reville, a coastal village in the Cotentin in the Manche department, facing the English Channel.
Our travel route took us via Honfleur and Trouville along the Côte Fleurie to the Ohama beach and the "Normandie American Cemetery & Memorial", where we stopped for some hours to visit this history-charged place. "Omaha" refers to an 8 kilometer section of the coast, facing the English Channel, from Vierville-sur-Mer to Colleville-sur-Mer known as the American Sector during the pivotal D-Day liberation of Normandy. This iconic stretch of coastline invites visitors to explore its profound historical significance and connect with the stories of bravery during the D-day landings that shaped the course of history.
The Normandie American Cemetery & Memorial
Manche, Cotentin, La Maison Gervaiserie & Spa
As we approached our next destination Reville, I forgot that one shouldn't rely too heavily on GPS navigation when set to "shortest distance", especially in France, where the country roads are often very narrow, being primarily used for agriculture. A fairly long stretch of road between places named L'Epinay and La Bijude was so narrow that even one car could barely squeeze between the bushes and cornfields on either side. I really should have known better from previous visits to rural France and was simply relieved, when we finally left that four-kilometer stretch of road behind us with no oncoming traffic. We eventually turned onto the road between Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue and Reville and breathed a sigh of relief when we saw the horizon and the sea again, shimmering in the afternoon sun on the Baie des Veys.
Later on our journey, Reville and the stretch of coast between Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue and Barfleur at the English Channel turned out to be one of our favourite destinations in the Normandy.
Before leaving La Maison Gervaiserie, Helene recommended we stop at "La Maison Biscuit" in Sortosville-en-Beaumont on our way to Genets – and we did. Wow, what a beautiful shop! Inside and out, it exudes a nostalgic charm that transports you straight back to the 1920s or 30s. It's brimming with delicious treats. Inside, each of the numerous rooms is lovingly decorated with meticulous attention to detail. Some might find it a bit over-decorated, but that's exactly what a traditional shop like this needs. Besides delicious biscuits, caramel bars and chocolates, they also offer alcoholic beverages including of course Calvados, savory foods, jams, tea and coffee, ham and salami, pickles – and the list goes on. You can easily browse everything from one little room to the next without ever leaving the building. The prices at this well-known establishment reflect the excellent quality of the products, but if you buy some of the treats to take home, you're guaranteed compliments from family and friends!
Manche, Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel & Cancale in Brittany
Mont-Saint-Michel and its bay was, of course, one of the highlights on our journey.
In this southern part of the Manche department, we received a warm welcome from Ana-Maria and François at their idyllic estate, Clerval, in Dragey-Ronthon. The location is ideal: the property lies near the heart of the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel and is a perfect base for exploring other attractions in that region of Normandy and parts of Brittany.
Situated near the coast in a broadleaf woodland between the villages of Genêts and Dragey, it is near points which offer magnificent views of the bay and Mont Saint-Michel. In addition to elegant and comfortable bed and breakfast rooms, Clerval also offers two studios in the garden. Mont Saint-Michel is just 25 minutes away by car, and Granville to the north can be reached in half an hour. François and Ana Maria are both certified guides in the bay and offer guided walks in German, English, Spanish, and French.
To enjoy a picturesque view of Mont-Saint-Michel during rising tides, François recommended to be no later than 7:30 p.m. at the Le Grouin du Sud viewing point just five kilometers south of Genets. His tide schedule was perfect.
This rocky outcrop located at the east side of the Mont Saint-Michel Bay, is a small headland, commanding some of the most breathtaking, sweeping views to be found in this area when during the high tides Mont-Saint-Michel seems to take a bath in the sea, lit by the warm orange sun setting at the horizon behind. The reward on finding that place was feeling all the more magical!
From that point, a glorious vista opens up before you: from the costal bay area, where the rivers Sélune and Sée meander in a silver glare to empty into the bay and an extraordinary variety of birdlife can be observed, all the way to Cancale in the Brittany, taking in Mont Saint-Michel bay along the way. The mount of Mont-Saint-Michel looms around four or five kilometres away and if you’re lucky, Mont-Saint-Michel presents itself during a spectacular sunset with dramatic cloud formations - and on mist-free evenings the coastline lights up in a beautiful dusk glow.
A side-trip to Cancale - what a "coincidence" that we love eating oysters ...
Genets is an ideal location to conveniently reach the costal stretch of the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel where the Normandie borders Brittany, which is also home to Cancale, the capital of oyster farming. On our way to Cancale, known for its world-famous oysters that are considered among the best in France, over time the style of houses changed from half-timbered houses to robust stone houses, which apparently suits better to the more rough climate predominant in Brittany. Our intent behind that tour was clear, to combine a flying visit to Brittany with tasting of the delicious, fresh oysters harvested in Cancale. It was worth it - believe us.
When approaching Cancale it was low tide and we could see oyster beds as far as the eye can see and boats are sitting tilted to the side on the sandy bottom of the harbour Port de la Houle. This small seaside town at the beginning of Brittany’s Emerald Coast has been harvesting oysters since the Roman times. Once at Port de la Houle, one should not miss the Marché aux Huîtres (the oyster market of Cancale) behind the second jetty. At the market you can enjoy the finest Cancalaises oysters and follow the established ritual: gobble and throw back the shells on to the beach pile of shells formed by those who had visited before. We were not the first doing this and certainly not the last ...
Should you want to slurp oysters accompanied by a glass of wine while enjoying the view to the port we'd highly recommend to visit the "L'Atelier de L'Huitre" (petit restaurant de fruits de mer) at 15 quai Gambetta, Cancale. No fuzz, just the very best oysters.
Giverny sur-la-Seine
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consetetur sadipscing elitr, sed diam nonumy eirmod tempor invidunt ut labore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no sea takimata sanctus est Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet.
New Content
About this Website
Lounge
Top of page